Comedor Típico La Abuelita at Mercado 20 de Noviembre
Tlayudas with Nopal
Empanadas, Enchiladas & Corn Tamales
The Best Food Experiences In Oaxaca
Oaxaca, Mexico has amazing food! Tacos, tlayudas, quesillo, carne asada, mezcal, chilaquiles, nopal… There are so many vibrant flavors.
I spent a month living in Oaxaca, happily eating my way through the city, and these are the 10 best food and drink experiences you need to try.
Save this Oaxaca Food Guide for your trip!
Mercado 20 de Noviembre
Smoke Hall | Mercado 20 de Noviembre
Peppers | Mercado 20 de Noviembre
Comdeor Sarita | Mercado 20 de Noviembre
Pan de Muerto | Mercado 20 de Noviembre
1. Wander Through Mercado 20 de Noviembre
Oaxaca’s central market has food stalls selling everything from grilled meat to fresh produce and baked goods. Spend an afternoon in the hectic market, weaving through the crowds, trying chapulines, chocolate, and your first taste of Mezcal. Walk through the Smoke Alley where you can select raw cuts of meat and have them grill them right in front of you. For the best Chilaquiles, sit down at Comedor Típico La Abuelita right in the heart of all the action. They also have huge tlayudas topped with quesillo, refried black beans, and shredded cabbage, perfect for sharing with your friends. If you’re traveling in October for Día de Muertos, you’ll see hundreds of pan de muerto. The sweet bread has a painted clay face called a Carita baked into it. The bread represents the body, and the painted face represents the soul returning home on Day of the Dead.
Pink Mole
Mole Negro
2. Eat Pink Mole
The word mole means something ground and is a thick sauce made from blending spices, nuts, seeds, and, very often, chocolate together. Oaxaca is known as the “land of seven moles”: Mole Negro, Amarillo, Verde, Coloradito, Rojo, Chichilo, and Manchamanteles. Beyond the classic moles, there is also a vibrant pink mole known as Mole Rosa. It gets its signature color from a combination of beets, pink pine nuts, and pomegranate. This sweet, earthy sauce is usually served over grilled chicken, seafood, or vegetables. The best pink mole we had was from the family-run restaurant, Azul Adobe. Located in Santiago Matatlán about an hour outside Oaxaca Centro, it’s a great place to stop for lunch after visiting Hierve el Agua.
Tacos
Esquites
Marquesita
3. Frequent Street Food Vendors
Walking around Oaxaca Centro, you’ll pass many street food vendors cooking meats and vegetables on open grills. A food journey through Oaxaca would not be complete without eating street food. The central street, C. Macedonio Alcalá, is a great place to try popular vendors. After a night out, a street taco hits different.
Best Street Food In Oaxaca
Tacos: Hot tacos made to order.
Marquesita: A crispy crepe, similar to a waffle cone, rolled into a circle and filled with toppings like cajeta, Nutella, condensed milk, cheese, or fruit.
Esquites: Corn kernels topped with mayonnaise, crema, crumbled cotija, lime, and chili powder.
Memelas: Toasted corn cakes traditionally topped with frijoles, salsa, and cheese.
Aguas Frescas: Homemade fruit waters.
Is Street Food In Oaxaca Safe To Eat?
Yes, most street food vendors are safe to eat at in Oaxaca. It’s a good idea to pick busy spots with crowds of locals for the highest quality vendors. Avoid raw fruit and vegetables that may have been washed in untreated tap water.
Use a machete to cut away the spiky leaves of the agave plant
Mezcal Tasting
4. Visit A Mezcal Farm & Palenque
Oaxaca produces over 80% of Mexico’s mezcal. While a Mezcalita is a fun, fruity way to drink mezcal, to get the real experience, head out of the city to a mezcal farm and distillery. Start in the agave fields and use a machete to cut away the spiky leaves, revealing the agave heart for harvest. Then head into the distillery to learn about the roasting, milling, and fermentation process. End the tour with a mezcal tasting. There are more than 30 species of agave that can be used in Mezcal, all resulting in different flavor profiles. We visited the multi-generational, family-owned farm and distillery, Mezcal Dainzú. Their passion and dedication to the craft are apparent in everything they do.
Appetizers | Levadura de Olla Restaurante
Vegan Tasting Menu | Levadura de Olla Restaurante
Dessert | Levadura de Olla Restaurante
5. Splurge On A Michelin Star Restaurant
At the other end of the spectrum from street food is Michelin Star dining. Oaxaca has two Michelin-starred restaurants: Los Danzantes Oaxaca and Levadura de Olla Restaurante. Both were very good, but I would recommend the tasting menu (vegan option available) from Levadura de Olla Restaurante for a thoughtful experience. Each course captures different traditional Oaxacan flavors and is paired with a drink to enhance the dish. Your server will break down all the ingredients and the ancestral roots of each plate as they come out. The heirloom tomato salad with more than a dozen varieties of tomato was unreal.
Oaxacan Hot Chocolate
6. Drink Oaxacan Hot Chocolate
Oaxacan hot chocolate is made from blocks of cacao, sugar, and cinnamon placed in a clay pitcher of boiling water and whisked with a wooden tool called a Molinillo. It is traditionally enjoyed with an airy loaf of bread for dipping in the thick chocolate. This version of hot chocolate is only slightly sweet with a gentle nutty, spicy flavor.
Oralia teaching me how to make Tamales
Homemade Tamales
Guisado de Quelites
7. Sign Up For A Traditional Cooking Class
A fun way to experience Oaxacan cuisine is to take a cooking class. We ventured to Teotitlán del Valle, a small village in the foothills of the Sierra Juárez mountains, to take a traditional cooking class. We spent the day with Oralia and Filomeno of Oaxaca Collective learning how to make tamales, weave rugs, and dip candles. This was such a special day, and I highly recommend adding it to your Oaxaca itinerary.
Once in Oaxaca
Masea Trigo y Maiz
8. Explore Oaxaca’s Vibrant Café Scene
There is a growing coffee and pastry scene in Oaxaca. Slow down with a cup of coffee and sit in one of the many interior courtyards across the city. All of these cafés make Oaxaca a fabulous destination for remote workers. Most cafés have strong wifi and lots of table space for coworking.
Best Cafes in Oaxaca
Once in Oaxaca: Adorable coffee & print shop
Kiyo Café: Perfect for coworking
Marito & Moglie Café: Great breakfast sandwiches and coffee
ONNNO: Best pastries in Oaxaca
Insider tip: Skip the outrageous line and subpar pastries at the overhyped Bodæga and head here instead.
Café Rústiko: Tasty hot chocolate
Cafébre: Nice lunch menu and refreshing drinks
Pan:am: Easy for a quick bite or takeaway
La Patrona Café Bistro: Lovely courtyard and great omelets
8 variations of Atole
9. Try Atole, The Ancient Indigenous Drink
Atole is a warm masa-based beverage with ancient origins. There are many recipes for atole, but the traditional drink includes masa (corn flour), sugar, cinnamon, vanilla, and chocolate. To try multiple flavors, head to La Atolería por Tierra del Sol. Chef Olga Cabrera Oropeza offers a rotating selection of traditional and seasonal atoles, all made fresh daily. This drink has a unique taste and texture that is not for everyone, but it's worth trying at least once.
Los Amantes Mezcaleria
Mezcal Oro de Oaxaca
10. Spend Evenings Enjoying Oaxaca’s Bar Scene
At night, Oaxaca comes alive. You’ll find live music spilling out of small bars and dancing happening on rooftops. There are lots of independent cocktail bars with seasonal menus. Try a Carajillo, a maracuja-based drink, or sip on straight mezcal to capture the flavors of the region. Many places look unassuming from the outside but are cozy and welcoming on the inside. Do an unofficial bar crawl and try out a few places.
Best Bars in Oaxaca
Los Amantes Mezcalería: Live guitar music
El Espacio Cocktail Bar: Bartender Max will put on a show making your drink
Txalaparta Bar: Head to the rooftop for dancing
Sabina Sabe: Creative cocktail menu
There are many vegetarian friendly cafes
Peanuts are in a lot of Atoles
Maze is a key ingredient in Oaxacan cuisine
Navigating Dietary Restrictions In Oaxaca
It’s possible to travel to Oaxaca with dietary restrictions, but there are a few ingredients to look out for.
Everyone was so kind and helpful. As a vegetarian with a peanut allergy, many people went out of their way to make sure I could eat.
Peanut Allergy
I did not anticipate how many traditional Oaxacan dishes involved peanuts. Peanuts are hidden in the sauces, chocolates, and most moles. You need to let people know you have this allergy before ordering.
Gluten Free
Corn is a staple in the Mexican diet, so gluten-free travelers are often happy with how wheat-free all the options are.
Shellfish
If you have a shellfish allergy, you need to avoid the chapulines (grasshoppers) as insects share the same allergenic proteins.
Vegetarian or Vegan
There are lots of vegetarian options in Oaxaca. However, a few dishes have hidden animal products. Lots of sauces, including all of the moles, are going to be made with animal stock as the base. Some restaurants will make you a special vegetarian mole if requested. A few dishes are topped with Chapulines (grasshoppers), so keep your eye out for that word and make sure to ask for your meal, “sin Chapulines.” Be aware that most vegetables are being grilled on the same griddle as the meat.
Many vegetarian dishes involve cheese or eggs, so being a vegan will be a more difficult dietary restriction to navigate. Thankfully, rice and beans are a staple in Mexican diets, so you’ll be able to make something work.
Best vegetarian restaurant in Oaxaca: Aguacate
Important phrases to know:
I am a vegetarian — “Yo soy vegetariana”
Without meat — “Sin Carne”
I am allergic to peanuts —“Soy alérgica al cacahuetes”
So much of Oaxaca’s food is made fresh, by hand every day
Final Thoughts
The food in Oaxaca is insane, and you really can’t go wrong with where to eat and drink. Follow these suggestions, but leave space for surprises. You won’t leave Oaxaca hungry.
