A Recharging Week in the Austrian Alps: My Experience At MoaAlm Mountain Retreat
Kals am Großglockner, Tirol, Austria
A Moment In The Mountains
Sitting on a grassy slope high in the Austrian Alps, surrounded by snow-capped peaks and gazing into the valley below, I pause to catch my breath after a steep vertical ascent. The summer sun warms my skin, and sweat beads at the nape of my neck. The mountain air is crisp and clean.
A breeze brushes tendrils of hair into my face, carrying with it the faint scent of last night’s campfire, mixing with the sweet smell of wild flowers.
It’s been less than 24 hours since I arrived at MoaAlm Mountain Retreat, and already my stress has melted away. It’s wild how quickly being in the mountains makes your inbox feel a world away. The only thing on my mind now? The burning in my thighs and the next step forward.
Dorfer Valley to a glacial lake
A Much-Needed Reset
Let’s rewind a few weeks. Vienna in June had become stifling. The city was filled with swarms of tourists, and the summer heat turned the air sticky and stagnant. (Europe really needs to discover air conditioning one of these days.)
As a self-employed creative, I rely on self-motivation to get things done (my fellow solopreneurs, you feel me). And after six months of nonstop work and travel, I hit a wall. Creativity felt like a chore, and my to-do list was looking less and less appealing.
I needed a break. The only problem? I usually relax by going on a trip, but I was so burned out on planning that the idea of handling travel logistics was daunting. This is when I was granted a stroke of serendipity.
A friend messaged me out of the blue and suggested I look into MoaAlm Mountain Retreat in Tyrol, Austria, for my next holiday. A week of yoga, hiking, and plant-based food in the Alps? It sounded perfect! And, best of all, it was all planned for me.
MoaAlm Sustainable Mountain House
Meet MoaAlm: Your Full-Service Mountain Escape
Situated at 1,800 meters, just outside the village of Kals, MoaAlm offers week-long holidays in the stunning Hohe Tauern National Park. Run by the lovely Sophie and Tobias, along with a small team of passionate seasonal staff, MoaAlm is committed to creating a space that helps guests reconnect with nature, community, and themselves. Guests are invited to unplug and immerse themselves in the tranquility of the mountains.
When I saw they still had summer retreat spots open, I didn’t think twice. I booked. We love an impulsive trip every once in a while.
South-facing private bedroom with mountain views
Help yourself to a latte, tea, beer, or cocktail at MoaAlm’s honesty bar
No Planning Required (Seriously)
MoaAlm made everything easy. Before my departure, Sophie sent a comprehensive packing list, right down to the socks. I hadn’t even left Vienna, and I could already start relaxing and follow the experts.
Once I arrived, the MoaAlm team handled everything: the mountain transfer from the train station, daily plant-based meals and snacks, yoga classes, guided hikes, and even ideas for the free day on the itinerary.
All I had to do was select my week and book the train, and every other detail was taken care of. Everything was so well thought out. I could fully switch my brain off. It was exactly what I needed.
Panorama Trail to Glocknerblick
Mountain hut
A Typical Day At MoaAlm
Every day at MoaAlm has been thoughtfully planned to give you the ideal mix of activities and relaxation.
MoaAlm’s yoga studio
Morning Yoga
Start your day with a guided one-hour vinyasa flow in a light-filled studio with panoramic mountain views. The class is accessible to all levels and is a great way to prepare your body for a day of movement. As the week progresses, your legs and back will thank you for the morning stretch. MoaAlm provides everything you need: mats, blocks, straps, and bolsters.
Eggs, fresh bread, spreads, cheese, and vegetables
Yogurt toppings
Breakfast
After yoga, head straight downstairs for a hearty breakfast spread. There are plenty of options for everyone: yogurt with a variety of toppings, fresh bread, eggs, vegetables, cheese, jams, coffee, and more. You are welcome to pack a lunch or a snack from the spread. MoaAlm has Tupperware and paper bags available.
Hohe Tauern National Park
Hike
Each day, you’ll embark on a challenging but rewarding hike. The different trails brought new terrain, views, and energy. Our longest trail was 18 kilometers and our highest ascent was 2,800 meters.
MoaAlm considers factors such as weather and group fitness level before selecting the hikes. During my week, we hiked:
Sunday: MoaAlm Junction to Lucknerhaus via Greibühl - A nice warm-up for the week.
Monday: Donkey Trail to Glorer Hut - A long, remote trail across the mountains. My favorite from the week!
Tuesday: Cable cars up to the Panorama Trail to Bergrestaurant Glocknerblick - The mountain hut is affectionately known as the witch hut, serving up herbal remedies and meals to weary hikers.
Wednesday: Free day - I took the bus to the nearby town of Lienz and swam in the Tristacher See (lake).
Thursday: Dorfer Valley to a glacial lake - Our longest hike, but we were rewarded with some of the best Kaiserschmarrn in Austria at the Kalser Tauernhaus.
Friday: Stüdlhütte from Lucknerhaus in the shadow of Großglockner - Our final hike pushed us with a steep ascent up to our final mountain hut.
L to R: Schlipfkrapfen (potato and cheese stuffed pasta); Mango summer cake; Radler
Lunch
After hours of hiking, lunches were often eaten trailside or at mountain huts serving hearty Austrian fare. Throughout the week, try the dumpling soups, cheesy spätzle (thick egg pasta), Tiroler Grostl (fried egg over potatoes), or würstel (sausages). Cool off with a refreshing Radler (half beer, half lemonade). After lunch, you’ll begin the slow descent down the mountain.
Black Sesame Matcha Roll
Afternoon Cake
Back at MoaAlm house, you’ll be greeted with a freshly baked, vegan cake. Every day, a new treat awaits.
Saturday: Goey Miso Brownies (still dreaming of these)
Sunday: Fanouropita aka The Cake For Lost Things
Monday: Banana Bread
Tuesday: Black Sesame Matcha Rolls (I had two…)
Wednesday: Free day - While there is no afternoon cake at MoaAlm, you can always get your fix at Mocafe in Lienz. Sit on their waterside terrace and enjoy a sweet treat.
Thursday: Coconut Berry Power Balls
Friday: Mango Summer Cake (Amazing!)
MoaAlm’s wood-fired hot tub
Evening Free Time & Hot Tub
Three days a week, the wood-fired hot tub will also be waiting for you. Soak your sore muscles and enjoy the uninterrupted mountain views. You’ll have a few hours of free time every evening—no errands to run, no dishes to do, no workout class to hurry off to—total free time to truly relax. Read your book, journal, stretch out your muscles in the yoga studio, try your feet on the slack line, or sit on the patio and listen to the sound of cowbells and the wind brushing through the mountain grains.
A different plant-based starter, main, and dessert and every night
Dinner
At 7 PM sharp, join the group for a delicious three-course vegan dinner, crafted from seasonal, locally sourced ingredients. Our chef, Izabella, told me she enjoys the challenge of creating different dishes based on what’s available. The team happily accommodates allergies or dietary restrictions if provided in advance.
MoaAlm dining room
Post-Dinner Drink
After dinner, unwind with schnapps or herbal tea and chat on the porch with fellow travelers. The fresh peppermint tea from MoaAlm’s herb garden was the perfect way to end the day.
The group my week was primarily 40-60 year olds (not my usual demographic), but they were lovely! That’s the exciting thing about small-group travel; you never know who you’ll be with, but you’ll always make friends. Every week at MoaAlm brings different ages and nationalities, all brought together by a love of being outdoors and a desire to spend a holiday in the mountains.
Mindful Movement As A Way To Reconnect With Yourself
Modern life keeps us seated for much of the day. My time at MoaAlm reminded me that the body craves movement. The hikes are carefully selected each week to best suit the skill level of the group, but they always include a few challenging moments to push yourself. You’ll find yourself impressed by how much your body can achieve if given the opportunity.
On day one of the retreat, you may struggle. On day two, you may feel a little sore. But by day three, your body is used to the routine and ready for another day of yoga and hiking. By the end of the week, I felt stronger and incredibly proud of what my body could do. Hiking for hours is a great way to get out of your head and into your body, fully present in the moment and the place.
If you have physical limitations, your mountain guide can suggest alternative routes, and you are always welcome to sit out a day. We want to challenge ourselves, but never push to injury.
Like a mountain goat
Immersion in Nature
I’ve hiked all around the world, from Iceland to New Zealand, but the trails in Hohe Tauern National Park were the most secluded I’ve ever experienced. Apart from the small dirt footpath, left from generations of hikers weaving through the alpine flora, there are no signs of people. No nearby motorway sounds, no garbage littering the trail, no distant telephone wires. You can easily walk for hours without crossing paths with anyone. It’s a wonderful experience. I often found myself hiking ahead of the group to embrace the peace of the alpine region fully. Just you, your boots, and the mountains.
A Model For Sustainable Travel
As the travel industry continues to grow, so does its impact. In recent years, people have been facing the conundrum of overtourism. There is a push to create more sustainable travel options that don’t negatively impact local communities or the environment. As a full-time traveler, I try to be conscious of my travel choices and look for ways to make sustainable decisions.
MoaAlm is committed to providing a sustainable tourism experience. The house runs largely on solar power. The hot tub is fire-heated. Meals are plant-based from local, independent growers and designed to minimize food waste. Recycling and composting are standard. The team also supports the local community by hiring local hiking guides and scheduling two group dinners in the nearby village of Kals—a great way to spread tourism money throughout the community. This is what the future of travel looks like!
Furthermore, all businesses within the Hohe Tauern National Park, including MoaAlm, need to meet specific sustainability requirements. So the entire valley is constantly pushing towards higher sustainability standards and works together to support one another.
As we continue to see a push for sustainable and ethical travel, business models like MoaAlm will take off. Unique experiences that don’t have you sacrificing comfort to be sustainable.
Signs of a week well spent
Final Thoughts: A True Reset
If you’ve followed my travels, you know I’ve had some epic adventures. My week at MoaAlm definitely takes a top spot in my travel memories!
I left with sore legs, a full heart, and a clear mind. Back in Vienna, I felt refreshed and creatively recharged in a way I hadn’t in a while. Think about it: When was the last time you came home from a holiday and truly felt recharged? Most of us joke that we need a vacation to recover from our vacation. MoaAlm is different.
There is something powerful about stepping away from your screens, tuning into your body, and letting nature recalibrate you.
Ready to Reset?
If you’re craving a true European escape this summer, MoaAlm is the place for you. A week of yoga, hiking, and plant-based food in a sustainable mountain house awaits!
Use the code “LauraXMoaAlm” for €100 off any remaining 2025 summer retreat weeks!
