How To Spend 4 Days in Paris, France: An Honest Review of Paris

 
Two women standing in front of Notre Dame

Cathedrale Notre-Dame de Paris

 

Ah Paris. The city of lights. The city of love. The city of… garbage?

Paris, France, has long been idolized as the most romantic destination in Europe, drawing nearly 50 million visitors every year. But does it really live up to everyone’s expectations?

I’ve been to Paris twice. The first time, I was 16, and certain I’d love it. I’d seen it glamorized in movies and heard people gush about its dreamy streets and sparkling romance. And while I did catch glimpses of that in the cozy street-side cafés and bridges stretching over the Seine, I saw a side of Paris that isn’t advertised. The dirty, crowded, and expensive parts of the city. Not at all living up to the picture-perfect version I’d been sold.

Twelve years later, my friends invited me to meet them in Paris. I thought, Okay, this is it. You’re older, a more experienced traveler. Surely now you’ll see the Paris everyone raves about. The trip was fun, but I still wasn’t impressed. 

An Honest Guide To Paris

Just because Paris wasn’t for me doesn’t mean it won’t be for you. People are very divided on this city: some fall in love and return year after year, while others go once and check it off the list. Paris is undeniably famous, with world-renowned art and history, and I do think it’s worth seeing once. 

Even though I don’t plan to go back, I’m glad I ticked off some of the classic sights like the Eiffel Tower and Arc de Triomphe. I mean, can I really call myself a world traveler if I haven’t at least experienced the basics?

What follows is my honest take on Paris: the good, the bad, and the avoidable. My 4-Day itinerary isn’t sugar-coated with Instagram-famous recommendations. This guide is grounded in what’s actually worth the hype and what isn’t. Use it as a base to plan your Paris trip!

Best Parts of Paris

 
French food

Paris has vegetarian options but it would be a difficult city for vegans.

 

Food

The food in Paris is unbelievable. Probably because everything is cooked in the world’s best butter. Seriously, though, the bread and pastries alone are worth a trip. 

Art & Architecture

Paris is home to world-famous art and diverse architecture. The itinerary below highlights the pieces and neighborhoods that I think are truly worth your time. 

 
Bistro chairs and tables outside a cafe

You can find quiet, picturesque pockets in Paris

 

Café Culture

This is one of the parts of Paris I genuinely love. Sitting outside on colorful bistro chairs, sipping an espresso, and watching the world go by is a quintessential Parisian experience. Every café has its own personality, and I had fun looking at all the different chair and table setups scattered across the city.

Places In Paris That Live Up To The Hype

  • Monet’s Water Lilies at l’Orangerie: The infinity-style display of Monet’s water lilies is breathtaking and a must-see

  • La Grande Epicerie: A high-end grocery store with an impressive selection of cheese, breads, meats, and, yes, butter. Exploring the aisles here feels like wandering through the flavors of Paris.

  • Top of the Eiffel Tower: Yes, it’s tourist central, but I actually enjoyed climbing to the top and taking in the views. Sometimes, the cliché (oh so French) is worth it. 

Worst Parts of Paris

Super Touristy

Paris is overcrowded. If you visit in the summer, you’ll need to book tickets in advance and even then, expect long waits for almost everything. Dinner reservations are also essential. 

Dirty

Because Paris is marketed as this sparkling, glamorous city, it’s easy to forget it’s still a massive urban hub. The metro, in particular, is grimy, and some neighborhoods are littered with garbage. On my recent trip, I saw a rat eating the carcass of another dead rat. Mmm, so romantic. 

Scams 

You have to stay alert in Paris. Pickpockets and scammers will prey on the naivety of tourists.

 
Crowds trying to get a photo of the Mona Lisa

It’s a no from me

 

Places To Avoid In Paris

  • Mona Lisa at the Louvre: Please don’t go to the Louvre just to see the Mona Lisa. Leave that poor woman alone. The crowds are unbearable, and honestly, the painting is so small and not exciting. Unless you have a specific exhibit you want to see, you can skip the Louvre. The signature glass pyramids of the Louvre create a greenhouse effect that, paired with the hordes of people, makes it so hot in the museum. 

  • Shakespeare and Co. Bookstore: The line for this historic bookstore stretches around the block, mostly filled with people wanting the tote bag. Paris is full of charming independent bookstores, so skip the line and discover lesser-known ones instead. 

4 Day Paris Itinerary

Day 1

Breakfast at La Maison d’Isabelle 

  • Start your Paris trip with an award-winning croissant and a mini quiche

Cross over the Seine via Petit Pont and stop at Cathedrale Notre-Dame de Paris. The newly reconstructed and restored cathedral is an architectural masterpiece.  

  • Entry is free, and you can reserve a time slot for your visit.

  • This is an iconic attraction, and the line to enter may be long, but it moves quickly.

  • Prepare for the inside to be crowded.

Next, walk a short distance to Sainte-Chapelle. This royal chapel, commissioned by King Louis IX of France, boasts a stunning collection of stained glass windows. 

  • Tickets with a timed entrance are needed. 

Finish your time on L’île de la Cité by walking to the Square du Vert-Galant to enjoy views of Pont Neuf

  • The bridge gives great views of boats going up and down the Seine.

For lunch, take the Metro to La Grande Epicerie. The bottom floor of this department store holds one of Paris’ fanciest grocery stores.  

  • Grab a selection of cheese, bread, meat, and fruit for a picnic. Don’t forget a bottle of bubbly to celebrate your first day in Paris.

  • You have to get a stick of butter! The butter in Paris is insanely good. You can even ask them to vacuum-seal a packet for you to bring home. 

With your picnic in hand, wander over to Jardin du Luxembourg and enjoy your charcuterie board lunch. 

  • Explore the gardens and watch children push toy sailboats in the octagonal pond. 

  • You’ll pass the Panthéon on your way out of the park.

Spend the afternoon shopping in the La Marais neighborhood. 

  • With hundreds of little shops to explore, it’s best to go with a plan of what you would like to shop for in mind.

  • A few ideas:

    • Sézane for clothing

    • Lancaster or RSVP for bags

    • Officine Universelle Buly or Le Studio des Parfums for perfume

    • Merci for a little bit of everything

    • Also, pop into any French pharmacy to stock up on amazing skincare

  • Visit Musée National Picasso-Paris 

    • Optional for art lovers

    • Need a ticket with a time slot to enter

 
Eiffel Tower sparkling at night

The Eiffel Tower will twinkle for 5 minutes at the top of every hour after sunset

 

End your day at the Eiffel Tower. Walk up the stairs and watch the sunset over Paris, or find a spot on the Champ de Mars and watch the Eiffel Tower sparkle at night.

  • The Eiffel Tower lights will twinkle for 5 minutes at the top of every hour after sunset. Have your camera ready–it goes fast!

  • This area is known for its high incidence of pickpockets and scams. Keep your valuables hidden and stay alert. 

  • Some options for dinner near the Eiffel Tower:

    • Milagro

    • Le Suffren

    • Le Fontaine de Mars

Day 2

Wake up with coffee from Noir.

  • This popular cafe has multiple locations around Paris, and the coffee is delicious.

Monet's Water Lilies

Monet’s Water Lilies: Reflets verts

Monet's Water Lilies

Monet’s Water Lilies: Le Matin clair aux saules

Head over to Musée de l’Orangerie to bask in Monet’s famous water lilies

  • My favorite pieces of art in Paris are Monet’s 8 compositions of water lilies. They are spectacular to see. 

  • Get there as early as possible to try and avoid massive crowds. 

After you’ve marveled at all the art Musée de l’Orangerie has to offer, stroll through the nearby Jardin des Tuileries

  • The park stretches for blocks, hosting beautiful gardens and interesting architecture.

 
Woman standing in front of the glass pyramid of the Louvre

Even with a ticketed time entrance, we still waited in line for 45 minutes

 

Arrive at the Musée du Louvre courtyard. 

  • Snap a photo with the iconic glass pyramid and then make a decision: Wait in line to enter (ticket needed) and brace the crowds to see the art, or keep walking. You already know where I stand on the matter.

Explore the cobbled streets of Montmartre.

  • Grab some pastries and walk up the steps to the Basilica. Sit on the steps and take in sweeping views of Paris.

  • Enjoy free entry to the Basilique du Sacré-Cœur de Montmartre.

  • This neighborhood has lots of street art, mom-and-pop cafes, and independent shops.

  • This is a touristy area, so beware of scammers and pickpockets.

After a busy morning, it’s time for lunch. Have a tasty sandwich from Chez Alain Miam Miam

  • Other sandwich shops in Paris worth trying:

    • Mmmozza..!

    • Caractère de Cochon

In the evening, sign up for a happy hour boat cruise

Day 3

This morning, make your way to the train station for a day trip!

  • Grab coffee and pastries to enjoy on your train journey.

Spend Day 3 in the adorable town of Reims, just east of Paris.

  • Stop by the Notre-Dame Cathedral de Reims and spot the similarities between the Reims Cathedral and the Paris Cathedral. 

  • Take a guided tour of the Fossier Cookie Factory and taste the famous pink Reims cookies. 

  • Window shop down the main streets and find a cozy cafe for lunch.

 
Woman tasting champagne in a champagne cellar

Champagne tasting at the Veuve Clicquot Maison

 

After lunch, arrive at the Veuve Clicquot Maison for a guided tour and champagne tasting.

  • Reims is known for its great champagne houses that produce and distribute the French bubbly beverage for the rest of the world.

  • Bring a light jacket for the tour; the champagne cellars are deep underground and are naturally chilled. 

  • Taste four different varieties of Veuve Clicquot and learn about the formidable woman behind the brand. 

Vineyard hop for the rest of the afternoon, trying all the flavors of the region. 

  • Eat dinner in Reims and then take your reserved train back to Paris. 

Day 4

After another French breakfast of buttery croissants, rich espresso, and even more butter, make your way to the Arc de Triomphe

  • Purchase tickets ahead of time to climb the steps to the top of the Arc de Triomphe. Snap your photo with the Eiffel Tower in the background and get a bird’s-eye view of the intricate Parisian streets. 

 
Woman standing on Arc de Triomphe with Eiffel Tower in background

Views from the Arc de Triomphe

 

Walk down the renowned Champs-Élysées.

  • This street is lined with upscale shops and restaurants. You’ll see big French brands like Louis Vuitton, Dior, Saint Laurent, Longchamp, and Chanel. 

  • Any purchase made on the Champs-Élysées will be a fun splurge. 

The Champs-Élysées should lead you to the Petit Palais

  • Stroll the gardens and enjoy the sculptures. 

 
Three crepes on table

I love a crepe

 

Share a sweet and savory crepe for lunch at one of Paris’ many creperies before walking over to Musée d’Orsay.

  • Situated on the banks of the Seine, this museum holds French paintings, sculptures, photographs, and furniture.

  • Tickets needed.

End your last day in Paris with drinks in the Latin Quarter. One of the oldest districts in Paris, the Latin Quarter is known for its lively atmosphere and nightlife. 

  • Two bar recommendations to get you started:

    • The French Flair

    • Dirty Dick

 
French magazine covers

Posters for sale along the Seine

 

An Honest Review of Paris, France

So, here’s my take: Paris has its charms, but it’s also overcrowded, overpriced, and in many ways, overhyped. If it’s been on your bucket list forever, go; eat a croissant by the Seine, see the Eiffel Tower sparkle, and wander through the museums. But manage your expectations. Paris isn’t the perfectly polished, romantic fantasy it’s often portrayed as.

For me, two visits were enough. I’m glad I experienced the highlights, but I don’t feel a pull to return. That said, I understand why others fall for it. Paris has a certain magic that, for the right person, delivers.

So go, see for yourself, and decide which team you’re on: Team Paris Forever or Team Once Was Enough.

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